549-4010. The fixed-price menus are expensive, nearly as high for lunch as for dinner, and the food can be glorious or slightly awry. A star on the menu is la bourride, a creamy, potent fish soup under a puff pastry crust. Home-style duck is rich with the anise-cinnamon-clove scent of five-spice powder. Valet parking for dinner only. Casba 2100 & St. NW. L, D daily. Oysters are briny and plump. L $3-$7.50, D $3.75-$17. And it contains less familiar items you should try, like stuffed cornmeal cakes called pupusas. Closed Mon. 290-9091. L $3.75-$6, D $4.95-$12. L $3.25-$5.25, D $5.25-$17.95. No reservations. 546-5900. The rest is slippery ground, for the vichyssoise tastes only of starch, the marinated seafood is an embarrassment of chewiness, the creamed spinach tastes like imitation canned, and the swordfish has been repeatedly overcooked. Full bar service. If You Grew Up In The '80s, Then You'll Remember These Restaurant L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Ocean ix is to be found on a side street, a pretty little house with awnings over the windows and a flower garden in front, and flanked by a parking lot. Children's prices. Shrimp dishes are good, though shrimp biriani has been served cold and dried out. Upstairs, several small rooms are appointed with fireplaces and ruby velvet chairs, silver napkin rings and salt shakers. Lately, a filet of salmon under a creamy tangle of shredded leeks was simply delicious. A tribute to its success, Trattu has developed from a cute little downstairs Italian restaurant to a two-branch operation and has given rise to spinoffs that copy its menu. Full bar service. Gusti's 1837 M St. NW. Clam clhowder is unorthodox, white but not creamy, heavily herbed, very good if you are not a traditionalist. MC, V. Reservations suggested. Nora 2132 Florida Ave. NW.462-5143. L daily ex Sat, D daily.Closed Sun. Masseria. Full bar service. No smoking. an.". But daily specials recited by the captain -- a long, confusing and often very expensive list -- are the heart of the matter. L $3.50-$6, D $4.50-$7.50. Full bar service. Closed Sun. Full bar service. Beer and wine only. You can wade through a lot o sushi -- and a lot o money -- without batting an eye, or carefully monitor your intake and have had a light, rapid and invigorating lunch in an exquisite setting at a modest price. Private Events. Ae, cb, d, mc, V. Reservations suggested.Parking lot. But if you know what you should do -- order the freshest and plainest Chesapeake Bay products, whether oysters, clams, crab or fish filets -- you won't be likely to care about the waiting line, the rush, the no-frills character of Crisfield. Fish is poached in parchment, but so is chicken, to a unique succulence that turns it into perhaps the best dish on the menu. Full bar service. Peking Garden 6802 Commerce St., Springfield. Children's prices. Children's prices. 363-6611. Order small bowls of stewed chicken, lamb or beef, either mildly spiced with cumin, cinnamon and the like, or hotly peppered with red pepper paste; spoon mounds of the meats and side dishes of braised cabbage and green beans and carrots in between, then start tearing and scooping. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Hidden below the bustling cormer of 17th and K Streets NW is a bustling bar where it's easy to relax and forget the over-head traffic jams. 6201 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church. 232-8400. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested, required on wekends. SE. No smoking section. It is simple and English, as handsome as Basil Rathbone and of similar vintage. La Fonda 1639 R St. NW. L $2.95-$3.99, D $3.95-$5.75. There are only a few pastas from which to choose, but you should start with the spinach-stuffed agnolotti in cream sauce. 790-1020. L $3.75-$9.75, D $6.50-$14.95. Children's meals. Parking in rear. Tacos and enchiladas form only a small part of the menu, which is an extensive list of brilliantly colored and subtly flavored dishes. It takes a zeal for devising and revising recipes and cooking methods to come up with basil-scented pasta doughs and pasta sauces rich and complex. The history of restaurants in the Nation's Capital. Street parking. AE, MC, V. Reservations suggested. 628-2330. 881-6330.L, D $1.10-6.95. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Maison Blanche 1725 F St. NW. And even more important, increasingly restaurants are serving seafood that is fresh rather than frozen, and cooking it properly. No reseravations. Harry's Restaurant. The brown and beige upstairs and downstairs rooms are close and cozy rather than grand, and the service is quietly competent. L $5.95-$8.75, D $8.95-$15.95. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. L daily ex Sun, D daily. 8130 Watson St., Tysons Corner. Vegetables are excellent, from sprightly coleslaw and tossed salad with zingy dressing to delicious cottage fries and dilled carrots. Street parking. Kalorama Cafe 2228 18th St. NW. And broiled scallops were as tasteless as they were grossly large. Open daily. L $3.95-$6.95, D $6.25-$9.95. Full bar service. L daily ex Sat, D daily. Children's prices. Start with fried samosas or pakoras to dip into tart, aromatic tamarind chutney. And any Formica luncheonette where you wait in line to pay $11.50 for flounder stuffed with crabmeat is bound to be good. The Fishery has quickly become a sought-after eating place adorned with long necklaces of prospective diners awaiting tables. L $4.95-$6.75, D $8.25- $13.50. Though they lose something in translation, the restaurant serves pretty good food in lush surroundings and serves it graciously. But it is a restaurant where they smile a lot while they blunder. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. With improvements in that arena and Szechuan's talent in playing with fire, this is Chinatown's best bet. Drink homemade ginger beer or more familiar beer or wine. No credit cards. Desserts have been developed to include wondrous bitter chocolate terrine, pear flan with ginger, fine-grained sherbets of exotic fruits. Parking lot in front. Children's prices. And the hostess still keeps a maternal eye on your table. Street parking. The third-year blues have hit La Fourchette. Washington still has about 5,000 restaurants. Central to Ethiopian dining are giant, pale, thin pancakes, sour from their fermented batter, which serve as tablecloth and utensil -- you eat with your hands by scooping meats and vegetables with pieces of pancake. Closed Sun. Intrigue has a small menu, just a few fish, three veals and four steaks. Booeymonger 5252 Wisconsin Ave. 686-5805. AE, MC, V. Reservations accepted. Szechuan & Hunan 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville. Closed Sun. MC, V. Reservations suggested. Anyone who lived in middle America and grew up in the '80s likely knows the odd name G.D. Ritzy's. First founded in Ohio in 1980, the 1950s-style restaurant grew quickly, with about 100 locations at its peak. L $7.75-$9.50, D $12-$17.50. L daily ex Sat, D daily. 17 Failed Fast Food Restaurants From the 1980s Eat This Not That But the chef understands the intricacies of seasoning, from soups to sherbets. Full bar service. Children's prices. More intricate dishes -- crab cakes, seafood Norfolk -- are, to be picky, apt to be flawed by too much green pepper or too much butter or too much something. An exception is dessert, for the pastries, particularly the liqueur-soaked tortes, are elaborate and highly professional. Children's prices Omar Khayyam 112 N. St. Asaph St., Alexandria. Szechuan Garden Bethesda 7800 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda. In an era that values light eating, Ikado's high prices for small portions detract little from its agreeability. Swensen's 1990 K St. NW. L $3.25-$5.50, D $3.25-$7.50. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. L, D daily. The rates are rough and homey, soups fragrant, main dishes bold with garlic and shallots. The population was shrinking, wealth flowed out to the suburbs, and you could buy a Northwest rowhouse for five figures. 790-9000. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. The pizza is rectangular, with flaky crust and thick, dark tomato paste topping. Discount parking in garage. Reseravations suggested. Embrace music at the 14th Annual D.C. Record Fair Eating trends move slowly, but in Washington they are continuing steadily towards seafoods and away from red meats. Zachary's 6238 Old Dominion Dr., McLean. The tables are too small, and you are likely to feel rushed, but the crush is a tribute to the food. Baobab 2106 18th St. NW. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Open daily. Parking lot. New China 660 S. Pickett St., Alexandria. L daily ex Sat, D daily. The kitchen's unique character blooms at dinner. Hunan Szechuan Village 4701 Columbia Pike., Arlington. E.J. Here is a prescription for enjoying the oldest restaurant in Washington, but follow the directions carefully. Full bar service. 9. Appetizers include savory German variations on charcuterie: air-dried beef, head cheese, Westphalian ham and tangy vinegary meat, cheese or herring salads. 333-9180. Much attention on the menu and in the dining room is paid to pastries and creme brulee, which are very good, though less remarkable than in the restaurant's early days. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Full bar service. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Closed Sun. MC,V. MC, V. Reservations accepted for six or more only. Full bar service. Full bar service. L daily, D daily ex Sat, Sun. Closed Sun. Reservations accepted. L daily ex Sat, D daily. D daily. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. AE, MC, V. No reservations. Closed Sat, Sun. $1.69 $1.99 . cFull bar service. L $4.75-$7.50, D $8-$12. 232-6965. ATTENTION 325544693449 AE, D, MC, V. Reservations accepted. This vegetarian restaurant has expanded by removing dividers that once lent privacy and has added an outdoor cafe. Parking lot in front. l daily ex Sat, D daily. SE. Arlington. Cool "Disco" Dan. Foggy Bottom Cafe The River Inn, 924 25th St. NW. Children's meals. Thank goodness the shish kebab was perfectly cooked and well-trimmed tender meat, and the orange cream pudding a refreshing contract of tart and sweet. There now is more than one answer to, "Where is a good seafood restaurant?" 659-4447. Free parking in building at dinner. All this, and the prices are low, servings large and menu extensive. L $3.45-$7.45, D $8.95-$14.95. Sea Catch 1221 E St. NW. No-smoking section. AE, MC, V. Reservations required. Parking lot in front. This is a friendly little restaurant with a representative choice of Vietnamese foods and, for the less adventurous, French dishes and even omelets. Ethiopian 2000 S St. NW. washington, dc restaurants in the 1980s - boomermna.com Some of the best dishes are cold appetizers -- hors d'oeuvres plates and pates -- and fish, whether a salmon in pastry or trout in a cream sauce. Others are good but without special character -- the snapper too chewy, the rillettes bland, the veal excessively pounded, the raspberry souffle lacking perfume. Full bar service. Yenching Palace 3524 Connecticut Ave., NW. 8. 244-1740. Closed Sun. Valet parking. Closed Mon. Prices are generally around two digits for entrees, but this is Indian food of particular character, where the interplay of aromas and tastes takes precedence over heat. Frederick, Md. Quincy's 5444 Columbia Pike, Arlington. Far from the spaghetti-and-meatballs image, this pasta house serves homemade egg noodles with cream, mushrooms, prosciutto and peas and linguine with crab or clams. Crazy Horse Bar B-Q Ranch 6521 Riggs Rd., Hyattsville. The most interesting and unusual dish is an appetizer -- sauteed bananas and onions in a hot tomato sauce. L $3.95-$7.95, D $4.25-$12.95. CB, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Beer and wine only. L $6.50-$9.95, D $10.95-$14.95. Stuffed grape leaves here are sweet and sour, pretty and unique. L $1.80-$5.50, D $8.50-$11.25. In general, this is routine cooking with decorator touches, the highlights likely to be from the pastry table. Two cautions: The coffee isn't even strong enough to tint a tablecloth, and throughout dinner you might want to look out for slices of those 20 pounds of garlic. Salads are superb -- spinach with a profusion of crisp bacon and crumbled blue cheese, caesar with fresh parmesan and truly fresh croutons. and car dealers will solely become service centers. MC, V. Reservations accepted, suggested on weekends. Street parking and nearby lot. 102 Shepherdson Ln NE, Vienna, VA 22180 | Redfin L $4.25-$11.50, D $5.95-$13.95. Jonah's Oyster Kitchen Hyatt Regency Hotel, 400 New Jersey Ave. NW. A mild introduction to Ethiopian fire, Axum's food is not the best among local Ethiopian restaurants, but the reasonable prices and gracious room add points. L $3.95-$5.25, D $5.50-$11.95. Beer and wine only. The pastry carts offer some of Le Bagatelle's finest moments, particularly the tarts, or the berries with sauce sabayon. Plata Grande 4060 Powder Mill Rd., Beltsville. Parking lot. Full bar service. 751-8888. It was known for its burgers, hot dogs, and milkshakes. Closed Sun. The main courses are a couple of veals, a couple of chicken dishes, lamb with rosemary and maybe a special or two, but they are fresh and spicy, food with a distinct Italian personality, the kind of food one excepts to find in any trattoria in Italy, which is indeed a compliment. Children's prices. SE. Scotland Yard is a bonnie darling of a restaurant with tartan tablecloths and lace curtains between the dark wood booths. Closed Mon. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. 466-8811 L $6.50-$10.75, D $11.50-$17. Full bar service at dinner, beer and wine only at lunch. Soup at 75 cents -- sometimes good, sometimes not -- and a very good simple salad at the same price fill out a meal of mountainous portions of superlative chicken or shrimp salad, hash or omelets or chopped steak with irresistible homemade potato chips called Palm fries. L $2.50-$7.95, D $6.95-$14.50. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations required. MC, V. No reservations. 966-2172. The room has been redone in bright glazed tiles on a white tile background, floors and walls, and the effect is at least startling. Seafood dishes are the most intriguing; crystal shrimp are soaked in ice water to crisp them, then cooked just until translucent. Imperial House 1801 K St. NW. Full bar service. 659-1211. Stacker compiled a list of the highest rated restaurants in Washington, D.C. from Tripadvisor. $1.69 $1.99 . Parking in rear or street. Parking in rear. Closed Mon. Parking lot. 299-3526. The gravlax is an extraordinary idea, the cured salmon charcoal-grilled very briefly, just so the surface is seared and the smoke has permeated the flesh. L $2.25-$3.95, D $3.25-$7.95. Wash down the meal with Golden Eagle beer and be prepared to fend off waiters imploring you to order a great array of side dishes and the restaurant's own cookbook. 337-0730. Closed Tues. DC, MC, V. No reservations. D $6.95-$13.95. L $4-$10.50, D $8.50-$13.50. Unused Pre-1980 CARSON'S RESTAURANT Largo Florida FL M8853. One of the prettiest restaurants in town, with a floating stairway up the two-story dining room and contemporary stained glass tinting the old brick, Da Vinci serves some of the best pasta in town. But it is frayed, slightly ramshackle and strung with fish nets and tawdry gewgaws, and the kitchen is part of the present slipshod era. Full bar service. MC, V. Reservations accepted. The waiters toss the food at you. Flight Table 10108 Greenbelt Rd., Lanham. Some dishes are hot, but more are piquant or aromatic or multi-flavored without being hot. No reservations. 19. No mousse in town is as light as Le Pavillon's chicken liver mousse with lobster, truffles and red and green peppers. Whatever combinations you choose, certainly include tibs, smoky-flavored grilled cubes of beef with onions, a mild dish that even entices children, and try the hand-chopped raw beef with chili pepper and butter to moisten it; a marvelous variation of tartar steak, it is called kitfo. Pasta sauces have nothing subtle about them, and veal scallopine are overdosed with sweet marsala or lemon. emily in paris savoir office. 296-7112. L daily, D daily ex Sun. Open daily. The Old Ebbitt Grill 1427 F St. NW. Washington has many elegant restaurants, but most of those serving good food in luxurious surrounding are either French or Italian.